Building secure belay or rappel anchors and making bomber gear placements is the foundation of outdoor rock climbing. In this half-day clinic we cover all aspects of building good anchors. This can be taken as a supplement to our introduction to lead climbing course, in preparation for the rock rescue program, or on its own.
The course takes place at a crag in either Icicle Creek or Tumwater Canyon at sites located both at the bottom and top of crags. This is a very hands-on course and participants will spend most of their time creating a variety of anchors after the instructor demonstrates appropriate technique. Once students have created each anchor they will be evaluated by the instructor, who will give suggestions for increasing anchor strength or decreasing the amount of equipment of time needed for each anchor.
- Placing camming devices
- Placing nuts
- Evaluating existing bolts and bolted anchors
- Evaluating natural features such as trees or rock for use as an anchor
- Climbing knots used in anchors and anchor systems
- Creation of ERNEST anchors
- Using slings or cordelettes to equalize anchors
- Making anchors multi-directional
- Top Rope anchors
- Lead climbing Anchors
- Rappel anchors
- Belaying directly from anchor using Petzl Reverso or BD Guide ATC
- Belaying the leader
- Belaying the second
- attaching yourself to the anchor
- Forces placed on climbing anchors
- Breaking strength of different materials
- Lead climbing protection
- Sport climbing protection
- Top-rope anchors
- Multi-pitch belay stations
- Rock rescue
- Setting up a top-roped anchor at a bolted belay station.
- Setting up a top-rope anchor using trad gear
- Setting up a top-rope using natural features such as trees or rocks.
- Placing cams and nuts in cracks
- Equalizing 2, 3, 4, and 5 piece anchors
- Advantages of pre-equalized vs. self-equalizing anchors
- Best practices for clipping bolts
Introduction to Lead Climbing
Multi-pitch Rock Climbing
Improvised Rock Rescue
While we don't generally climb on this program, we will discuss placing gear on lead, setting up top rope anchors, building anchors on multi-pitch climbs, anchoring the belayer, and anchors suitable for improvised rock rescue. Other topics include equalization, directional anchors, and rappel anchors.
here. Once you have completed your application you can make your deposit or full payment here. It is best to call our office at 509-548-5823 to make sure that space is available on your selected program. Space is allotted on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Portions of this program take place on US Forest Service lands under a commercial-outfitter and guide permits. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities and is an equal opportunity provider and employer.