Mt. Baker Climb Day 1: 8 am group orientation and introductions at the USFS ranger station in Glacier, WA. Prior to the trip you will be contacted by our office to make sure you have all the gear you need and to arrange rentals of the items you do not own or want to buy. For this route it is imperative that you bring lightweight gear that is simultaneously sufficient for the climb. At this morning meeting we will conduct a thorough equipment check, distribute group gear, and help each member organize their pack for the hike in.
We will then hike in to around 6700' where we will leave our camp while we are out on the route. This trip in usually takes around 4+ hours. We often scout the approach across the Coleman Glacier the afternoon before the climb in order to speed things up during our pre-dawn start.
Mt. Baker Climb Day 2: From a high camp at around 6700' we usually travel up the center of the broken Coleman Glacier to the base of the headwall at around 8500. The route varies a bit from season to season with most of the climbing being in the 45 to 50 degree range with a bit of wandering to avoid crevasses. There is always a bergschrund to surmount, and generally some short, steep ice steps to negotiate before reaching the lower angled slopes that lead to the summit plateau.
This is climbed in 60-70 meter pitches, and it is critical for climbers to use efficient ice climbing techniques to make it to the top still feeling fresh enough for the descent. Once on top we descend the Coleman-Deming route back to camp. Many parties choose to then hike out to the trail head, but we also have the option of spending the night, getting in some ice climbing on the lower Coleman Glacier on the morning of the third day and then hiking out.
Mt. Baker Climb Day 3: Leisurely wake up followed by the hike out and drive back to Seattle. If you have the energy we can always top rope a few pitches in the seracs on the lower Coleman Glacier in the morning before we depart.