Glacier Peak Climb 


Glacier Peak from the South
Glacier Peak (10,541')

Mountain: Glacier Peak - 10,541 feet

Route: White Chuck and Cool Glaciers

2014 Dates:
  • July 16-19, 2015
  • July 30-August 2, 2015
  • August 13-16, 2015
  • August 27-30, 2015
  • September 5-8, 2015
  • Custom Dates also avail



Scheduled Cost: $995 each

Custom Pricing

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Cost Includes
Guide fee, guide's expenses, group climbing equipment and camping gear.
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Cost Does Not Include
Transportation to/from the course area, personal food, personal climbing equipment, trailhead parking pass fees.

Client to Guide Ratio: Up to 5:1

Expedition PDFs 


Equipment List ยป

Glacier Lilies on Glacier Peak
Glacier Peak Summit
Climbing Group on Glacier Peak
View on way into Glacier Peak Climb
Climber at Sunrise on Glacier Peak
Mt. Rainier from Glacier Peak
Indian Paintbrush
Glacier Peak is Washington's 5th highest mountain and it holds special significance for the Northwest Mountain School as the mountain we first guided when we started up in 1994. Any climb of Glacier Peak provides a pristine trip into the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Severe flooding in the recent past has made once difficult to reach Glacier Peak feel even more remote.

The route that we are currently using is the approach via the North Fork of the Sauk River trail to the PCT, and then eventually to White Pass. Beyond White Pass we utilize climbers trails to access the White Chuck Glacier and eventually reaching the summit by skirting Disappointment Peak (9755') and climbing via the Cool Glacier to the top.

Most groups will want 4 days to comfortably make the round trip to the summit of Glacier Peak and back, but we have had groups do this in less time. This is a strenuous trip, but no portion of the trip involves very advanced climbing.

Glacier Peak Summit Climb Itinerary: 


Glacier Peak Climb Day 1: Meet in Darrington, WA for an equipment check, introductions, and group gear packing. Drive to North Fork of Sauk River trailhead (2300'). Hike to White Pass for night (5904'). One feature of any climb of Glacier Peak is the opportunity to hike through some of Washington's most spectacular stands of old growth Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar.

Glacier Peak Climb Day 2: Traverse on climbers trail above White River and Foam Creek, eventually gaining White Chuck Glacier. Ascend this to glacier under Disappointment Peak and camp at around 7850' There are a wide variety of possible camping spots in the areas, so we may choose to camp lower. We aim to be in bed early this night in preparation for an alpine start the next morning.

Glacier Peak Climb Day 3: Summit via the White Chuck, and then eventually the Cool Glacier. The summit day in moderate in nature with short steps of steep climbing to get around various terrain features. Although it is difficult to see Glacier Peak from most roads in WA, the view from the summit stretches from Mt. Baker and Shuksan in the North to Mt. Rainer and Mt. Adams in the south. Far more people have climbed Rainier, Baker, or Adams than Glacier Peak, a thought to savor on this beautiful and remote North Cascades summit. We will likely try to move our camp back in the direction of White Pass at the end of the day in order to facilitate an achievable exit on the last day.

Glacier Peak Climb Day 4: Exit to trailhead.

Ski Descent of Glacier Peak 

From April through early June we also offer a guided ski descent of Glacier Peak using alpine touring skis.

Qualifications 

Participants should be familiar with use of ice axe and crampons and have previous glacier travel experience. For those without this experience we suggest adding a 5th day so that we can conduct this training on the course.