Mount Baker Climb - Coleman-Deming Route

Mount Baker Climb - Coleman-Deming

The Coleman-Deming sits on the NW corner of Mt. Baker and is the most commonly climbed route on the mountain. We find this route it a bit more interesting than the Easton Glacier, but it also requires slightly more effort, a longer drive, and often sharing the route with other climbers. Both the climb and the approach offer spectacular views of the North Face of Baker as well as the massive and spectacular icefalls on the lower Coleman Glacier. The climb itself is very moderate, but does require navigating in and around some very large crevasses and has a higher level of objective hazard than the Easton Glacier route.

Mount Baker Climb - Coleman-Deming

Mt. Baker Climb Day 1: 8 am group orientation and introductions at the USFS ranger station in Glacier, WA. Prior to the trip you will be contacted by our office to make sure you have all the gear you need and to arrange rentals of the items you do not own or want to buy. At this morning meeting we will conduct a thorough equipment check, distribute group gear, and help each member organize their pack for the hike in.

We will then drive for approximately 25 minutes to the trailhead at 3700' and begin our hike to our camp near the edge of the Coleman Glacier. The hike in is on a well-traveled trail until 5200' at which point we take a climbers trail up to about 6000'. On the hike in your guides will discuss climbing efficiently and will orient you in the latest Leave No Trace techniques. We will place our camp at around 6000', and use the evening to enjoy the views, cover a few basic skills, and prepare dinner.

Mt. Baker Climb Day 2: This day will be used to review the basic skills required for a climb of Mt. Baker, including: ice axe self-arrest, use of crampons, rope-travel, team arrest, climbing efficiencies, and making corners. We will also provide an introduction to crevasse rescue, giving you a very basic idea of how we can pull someone from a crevasse if the end up in one. This basic introduction involves a demonstration, review of some basic climbing knots and hitches, and a discussion of snow anchors. We will plan to get to bed early for a pre-dawn start the next morning.

Mt. Baker Climb Day 3: Climbs of the Coleman-Deming route always require an early start. We will be up before the sun and will rope up top climb up the massive and impressive Coleman Glacier until we reach 9200' where we join the Upper Deming Glacier for the finally moderately steep climb up to the summit plateau. Given the length of the hike out and the drive we will work to be back to camp by late morning and headed down by mid-day in order to get everyone back to Seattle by late evening.

*Note on Baker North Side Climbs. There may be times when group strength and/or weather forecasts may encourage us to climb on Day 2 instead of Day 3 if we feel it gives us the best chance of getting to the top. In the event that we do this, on Day 3 we will offer other options in the morning such as additional technical training or ice climbing prior to the hike out.

Alternatives to scheduled Mt. Baker climbs

We offer set dates primarily so that people coming in groups of 1 or 2 can keep their cost down and have the opportunity to meet and climb with other people. If you would prefer to set your own date, or want to climb with a specific group of friends or family members, we can easily arrange a custom program for you. For groups of 3 or more the cost for a custom climb is actually a bit less than our scheduled program and thus is a very economical option for putting together your climb. Contact the office to inquire about open dates and the route that will be best for your group.

Qualifications for climbing Mt. Baker

You do not need previous climbing experience for this climb, but you do need to be in good condition. Expect to carry a pack weighing between 30-40lbs, the primary factor being how much lightweight climbing gear you utilize. Group members are expected to carry their portion of the group gear including tents, food, and a portion of the climbing gear. If you would prefer to have a lighter pack going to and from the camp, we can arrange porters for an additional fee. We can be reached at 509-548-5823 or by e-mail.

Other routes we guide on Mt. Baker

• The Easton Glacier
  
• The North Ridge Route
  
• The Coleman Headwall Route