We like to think of the North Ridge as a shorter version of Mt. Rainier's Liberty Ridge, and a very good addition to a resume that claims other routes like the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, the North Face of Mt. Buckner, and the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak}.
Ideally done as a custom so that you can pick your partner. This can get busy on weekends, so if at all possible, try to schedule during the week. We run a ton of these, generally as custom climbs, but offer a few set-dates if you are coming alone and want to hold the cost down.
We hike in to around 6700' and get setup for an early wake up to traverse to the base of the North Ridge. This trip in usually takes around 4+ hours. On the evening before the climb we will eat a big dinner, and be sure to get to bed early for our pre-dawn start.
Baker North Ridge Day 2: Up early, we must first negotiate the often very broken Coleman Glacier to the base of the route at 7,800' We will often have scouted and marked this route the night before in order to speed our approach in the morning. The route tends to slowly get steeper and more complicated as the season progresses.
Once on route, things remain fairly low-angle before reaching the crest of the North Ridge at around 8,800. From here the route narrows and steepens before eventually gaining a 1-2 pitch section of steeper ice leading to the magnificent 50 degree slopes that lead to the summit. After descending to camp in the early afternoon we then hike back to the trailhead.
- Steph Abbeg's North Ridge Trip Reports: We have a soft spot for Steph's very detailed and well put together trip reports. This is good place to get an overview of the route.
- Mountain Project: We often end up here when researching climbs we have not done.
- Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson & Potterfield (Vol 1, 2nd Edition): If you climb in the Cascades this should be on your shelf.
- Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite Climbs in North America: Fred Beckey made the first ascent in August of 1948 and we can't quit thumbing through it.