NMS Sharkfin Tower Climb

Sharkfin Tower lies on the long ridge between Forbidden Peak and Boston Peak. A climb of Sharkfin Tower involves a short section of glacier travel, 5th class rock climbing and places the climber in a unique position. While not overly difficult, or overly, the climb of Sharkfin makes for a nice one-day outing, but is most often added to a climb of Sahale's Quien Sabe Glacier to create a full day of mountaineering starting from Boston Basin.

From Boston Basin we climb up the lateral moraine of the Quien Sabe Glacier, gain the Quien Sabe Glacier and then ascend gullies to the notch at the east end of Sharkfin Tower. Once on the climb itself we are able to peer don onto the remote Boston Glacier, and can see over to hidden North Cascades peaks such as Mount Buckner, and Mount Logan. 3 or 4 pitches bring us to the tiny summit. On descent, we generally rappel the route initially and then the South Face of Sharkfin Tower to the base.

If looking for a moderate tour in Boston Basin, you might consider combining Sharkfin Tower's Southeast Ridge, Sahale Peak's Quien Sabe Glacier, and Mount Torment's Southeast Face in a very full 3-day tour of the area.

Itinerary

The approach to Sharkfin Tower takes guided parties about 5 hours from the car. With this in mind, Sharkfin Tower's Southeast Ridge is usually climbed in combination with other peaks in Boston Basin.

Qualifications

Very good physical fitness, solid belaying skills, previous ice axe and crampon experience (unless taking a program that covers these skills), ability to climb 5.6 to quickly, smoothly, and efficiently.