1-day Crevasse Rescue Course - Stevens Pass 

Learn to rescue a partner from a crevasse in one focused day of hands-on training, a short drive from Seattle.

We teach the full rescue sequence: holding the fall, building an anchor, and hauling the climber out. That includes techniques for handling a rescue on your own. You’ll work with basic gear (prusik cords, slings, and a cordelette) and with more advanced tools such as auto-blocking belay devices, Petzl Micro/Nano Traxions, Edelrid Hollow Block. We also discuss the use of stand-alone kits such as Petzl's Crevasse Rescue Kit and explain how these are often an acceptable solution for situations like ski touring.

No crevasse rescue experience is needed, and the course also works well as a refresher before a glacier climb. We train on snow near the trailhead instead of in a real crevasse to maximize time spent reviewing systems rather than hiking. To train in an actual crevasse, consider one of our overnight mountaineering courses.

Skills Covered 

Preparing for Glacier Travel

• Pre-rigging the rope and harness
• Chest harnesses
• Ditch loops for heavy packs
• Knots and hitches: prusik, klemheist, autoblock, clove hitch, figure-8 family

Stopping the Fall

• Self-arrest
• Knots in the climbing rope to help catch a fall

Building the Anchor

• Snow anchors: pickets, deadman and T-slot, snow bollards
• Ice anchors and ice bollards
• ERNEST anchor principles

Taking Control of the Rescue

• Escaping the belay
• Securing the loaded rope: rope and sling vs. mechanical device
• Rappelling into a crevasse with a backup
• Securing the fallen climber

Getting the Climber Out

• Self-rescue: climbing out using simple and mechanical systems
• Raising systems: C (2:1), drop C (2:1), Z (3:1), 5:1, and 6:1
• Calculating forces on the fallen climber and the anchor
• Lowering with a backup

Typical Day 

8am: Meet instructor at Stevens Pass - group introductions and review gear to be used during the course.

8:30am - 10:30am: Knot and hitch review, snow and ice anchors, equalizing anchors.

10:30am - 11:30am: Students build ERNEST anchors and test anchor strength.

11:30am - 12:45pm: Demonstrate and practice basic crevasse rescue systems with focus on perfecting c systems, z systems, and simple scenarios. Learn to calculate loads.

12:45PM - 2:00PM: Adding mechanical advantage to reach 5:1 and 6:1 and strategies for single rescuer scenarios.

2:00pm - 4:00pm: Break into groups to practice full scenarios.

Prerequisite Skills 

You do not need any previous crevasse rescue training to take this course. The more you know coming into the course, the more you will get from it. It is worthwhile to review some of the basic knots and hitches listed above. We will not do any in depth training in basic rope travel or self-arrest, but we will review proper anchor position and talk about different ways you can rope up to set yourself up for an effective crevasse rescue.

Course location 

We utilize a variety of sites along US highway 2 that provide a good, steep snow bank for practicing crevasse rescue. All feature very short approaches to maximize training time.

This program takes place on US Forest Service lands under a commercial-outfitter and guide permit. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs & activities and is an equal opportunity provider and employer.